Mango Trees For Sale

Shop Florida-grown grafted mango trees — proven varieties that fruit faster, ship healthy, and thrive in containers or in-ground. Expert-selected for home growers.
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Dwarf or Condo Mangos

Varieties and Cultivars: Which Mango Is Right for You?

Mango cultivars fall into a few broad families. Florida varieties like Glenn, Haden, Kent, and Tommy Atkins were selected over the last century for disease resistance, dependable color, and shelf life. Indian Types such as Mallika, Alphonso, and Neelum bring intense, aromatic, often spicy-sweet flesh. Southeast Asian types like Nam Doc Mai and Pickering tend to be fiberless, slender-seeded, and resistant to humidity. Knowing the family tells you a lot about fruit shape, fruit color, fruit flavor, and how the tree will handle our climate.

A practical way to choose:

Within those families, individual mango cultivars differ in fruit shape, fruit color, fruit flavor, and disease resistance. Round, blushed Florida selections like Glenn and Haden ship and store well; long, slender Southeast Asian fruit like Nam Doc Mai is prized for fiberless flesh; the Indian Types lean aromatic and resinous. If anthracnose pressure is high in your area, lean on cultivars bred for disease resistance such as Glenn, Carrie, and Fairchild. Color is a poor ripeness cue across this range — a green-skinned Keitt can be dead ripe — so we steer customers toward flavor and texture notes instead of looks.

Most of our trees are grafted from monoembryonic seeds of named parents, so the fruit comes true to the cultivar. A handful of rootstock parents are polyembryonic — they produce several clonal seedlings plus the zygotic one — which is why we use them as our polyembryonic rootstocks for vigor. The distinction between monoembryonic seeds and polyembryonic seeds is exactly why named varieties must be grafted rather than grown from pits.

Why grafted mango trees?

A grafted tree fruits in 2–3 years instead of the 6–8 years a seedling needs, and it inherits the exact traits of the parent variety. You get predictable fruit size, fruit flavor, and growth habit, plus the disease resistance bred into proven cultivars. Seedlings are a gamble; a grafted tree is a known quantity.

Geographical Distribution and Climate Requirements

The mango is native to the Indo-Burma region of tropical Asia and is now grown across the tropical and subtropical lowlands worldwide. In the United States, reliable outdoor fruiting is limited to the southernmost portions of Florida and California plus Hawaii and Puerto Rico. In Florida, commercial and dooryard mangoes concentrate in the warm southeastern and southwestern coastal areas — particularly Dade, Lee, and Palm Beach Counties — and in protected locations around the moderating influence of Lake Okeechobee.

Mango trees thrive in warm temperate to tropical conditions and want a distinct dry period to set flowers. They tolerate humid conditions but resent poorly drained soils. Mature trees survive brief dips to a minimum temperature of around 28–30°F (-1 to -2°C); young trees are far more tender and should be protected below freezing. If you're outside the reliable mango tree growing zones (USDA 9b–11), choose a hardier cold-hardy fruit tree, or grow a dwarf in a pot and move it under cover for winter.

Planting Requirements and Techniques

Site selection is the single most important decision you'll make. Choose full sun — at least 8 hours — on the highest, best-drained ground you have. Mangoes will not tolerate wet feet, so on Florida's flat lots we plant on a mound of native soil 2–3 feet wide and 12 inches high to lift the root crown above standing water. Sandy soil is ideal; heavy clay needs the mound plus generous spacing for airflow.

How to plant:

  1. Dig a hole three times the width of the pot but no deeper than the root ball.
  2. Set the tree so the graft union sits well above the soil line.
  3. Backfill with native soil — don't amend heavily, or roots circle in the "pot" you've created.
  4. Water in deeply and mulch (keeping mulch off the trunk).

Good site selection pays off for decades: pick the warmest, brightest, best-drained corner of your property and avoid frost pockets at the base of slopes. On our nursery's sandy soil the planting mound of native soil is non-negotiable — it keeps the root crown dry through summer downpours. If you garden on heavier ground, widen the mound and open up the spacing so air moves freely through the canopy. Always plant in full sun; a mango shaded for half the day stretches, sulks, and fruits poorly.

Spacing: full-size trees need 25–30 feet; dwarf and condo varieties can go as close as 8–12 feet, or single specimens in 15-gallon containers. Match the variety to your site's cold tolerance — Indian types like Mallika and Neelum take brief chills better than tender Southeast Asian selections, so northern-edge growers should plant the hardier cultivars or keep tender ones potted.

Early formative pruning in the first two years sets a strong scaffold of lateral branches and keeps the canopy open. Tip the leader at about 3 feet to force three or four well-spaced lateral branches, then repeat on each of those — this formative pruning is what builds a sturdy, low frame. Ongoing tree training — heading back leaders and thinning crossing limbs — builds a low, spreading frame that's easy to net and harvest. Thereafter, selective pruning for size control lets you keep even a vigorous tree at a pickable 8–12 feet, the same size control approach that makes ultra-low water input dooryard plantings practical. Match the variety to your site's cold tolerance as well: hardier Indian types extend how far north you can plant in the ground, while tender selections do better potted.

Care and Maintenance

Once established, mangoes are among the most forgiving fruit trees you can grow — but a little routine care dramatically improves yield and fruit quality.

Fertilization. Young trees benefit from light, frequent feeding with a balanced NPK + Mg mix (look for added magnesium and micronutrients; Florida sands are notoriously poor). We feed 3–4 times during the active growing season and stop by early fall so new flushes harden before winter. Iron and manganese foliar sprays correct the yellowing common in our high-pH coastal soils.

Irrigation. Water deeply but infrequently. Mangoes are drought-tolerant once established; overwatering is the most common way new growers kill a tree. Withhold water as the dry season approaches to encourage flowering, then resume once fruit has set.

Pest and disease management. The big one in Florida is anthracnose, a fungal disease that blackens flowers and spots fruit in wet springs; copper sprays at flowering help. Watch also for powdery mildew on blooms, mango scab on young fruit, and insect pests such as scale, thrips, and mango shoot borers. Good airflow from pruning is your best preventive.

Pruning and mulching. Annual selective pruning keeps the canopy open and the tree short. Avoid severe pruning into bare wood and never leave a flush cut that causes trunk injury — for large structural cuts on a mature tree, hire a professional arborist. A 2–3 inch ring of mulch conserves moisture and feeds soil life, but keep it a hand's width from the trunk.

Growth Habits and Development Stages

A mango is a long-lived evergreen with dense, leathery leaves and, left unpruned, a broad canopy that can reach 30–60 feet — which is why annual pruning and tree training matter so much in a home landscape. New growth comes in rhythmic flushes; flowering follows the cool, dry months, and fruit maturity arrives 100–150 days after fruit set depending on variety.

The mango tree growth rate is moderate to fast in youth and slows with age. Understanding the mango tree growth stages — establishment, vegetative flushing, first flowering, and full bearing — helps you time fertilizer and pruning. Watch for two disorders: mango malformation (distorted, broom-like shoots and flower clusters caused by a fungus/mite complex) and general mango decline (dieback from stress, poor drainage, or nutrient deficiency). Both are managed by removing affected tissue and correcting the underlying cause. As a bonus, a mature mango is a meaningful contributor to backyard carbon sequestration.

For small spaces, our dwarf mango varieties are bred to stay compact without constant cutting — ideal where a full-size canopy simply won't fit.

Propagation Methods

We're a grafting nursery first, so this is the part we know best.

  • Seed propagation works but is unpredictable for fruit quality. A monoembryonic seed (most Indian types) yields a single seedling that does not come true to the parent. A polyembryonic seed (many Southeast Asian types) produces several clonal seedlings that largely do match the parent — useful for rootstocks.
  • Vegetative propagation by grafting is how every named cultivar is reproduced reliably. We graft selected scion wood onto vigorous polyembryonic rootstocks, which is the backbone of serious mango breeding and the reason a grafted tree fruits years sooner.
  • Choosing the right rootstock also supports size control, ultra-low water input, and ultra-low fertilizer input systems — exactly what a dooryard grower wants.

A quick primer on the grafting itself: we cut dormant scion wood from a proven mother tree and join it to a seedling rootstock of the same diameter, usually by veneer or cleft graft, then wrap and seal the union until it knits. Because the scion is a clone, the resulting tree carries the parent's exact fruit and growth habit — the core principle behind all commercial vegetative propagation and mango breeding. We choose vigorous polyembryonic rootstocks specifically for their root health and their support of size control, ultra-low water input, and ultra-low fertilizer input dooryard systems.

Timing and technique matter: we graft during the warm-season flush when the bark slips cleanly, keep scion and rootstocks at matched diameters, and protect the union from sun and rain until it calluses. A failed graft almost always traces back to mismatched cambium or a union that dried out. Because we propagate this way, size control, ultra-low water input, and ultra-low fertilizer input are designed into the tree from its rootstocks up — not bolted on later.

If you're tempted to grow from a grocery-store pit, go in knowing you may wait the better part of a decade for fruit that may not resemble the original — and you'll have practiced seed propagation rather than the vegetative propagation that locks in quality. A grafted tree skips all of that.

Harvesting, Ripening, and Storage

Most of our varieties give a multi-harvest fruiting season from June through September, and mixing early, mid, and late cultivars stretches fresh fruit across the whole summer.

Harvesting. Pick when mature fruits reach full size, the shoulders fill out, and the "nose" (the beak end) plumps — color is a poor guide on green-skinned varieties. Harvest from the fruit canopy with a picking pole fitted with a cutting blade and catch bag so fruit never hits the ground. Leave a short stem and let the sap drain away from the skin to avoid sap burn.

Ripening. Mangoes are climacteric — they ripen off the tree. Hold them at room ripening temperatures (68–75°F) until they yield slightly to a gentle squeeze and smell sweet at the stem. Chilling unripe fruit causes off flavors and pitting, so never refrigerate a hard mango.

Knowing when fruit is ready. Maturity timing runs by variety: early types like Rosigold ripen in May–June, mid-season Glenn and Haden in June–July, and late Keitt and Valencia Pride into August–September. On the tree, mature fruits stop enlarging, the shoulders and the nose round out and fill, and the skin develops a faint bloom; a picked fruit that sinks in water is mature, one that floats is not. Harvest in the cool of the morning when the fruit canopy is dry.

Storage. Once ripe, fruit keeps 4–7 days in the refrigerator. Commercial packers move fruit through a packinghouse with controlled temperatures to slow ripening and limit storage disease; at home, simply ripen on the counter and chill only when soft. Judge readiness by feel at the shoulders and the nose rather than skin color. A heavy crop preserves well: purée and freeze, or dry slices for fruit leather. Mango freezes beautifully once cubed — a low-waste way to keep a heavy harvest, and a small offset to the greenhouse gases tied to importing out-of-season fruit from overseas.

Uses and Nutritional Value

A ripe mango is one of the most nutrient-dense fruits you can grow. The ripe mangos are rich in vitamins A, vitamins C, vitamins B-6, and vitamins E, plus potassium and phosphorus — all for about 100 calories a cup.

In the kitchen the fruit is endlessly versatile. Enjoy it for fresh consumption out of hand; blend it into smoothies, salsas, and lassi; or use the firm, tart green fruit as a vegetable when green in Southeast Asian and Indian mango dishes — think green-mango salad, pickles, and chutney. Flavor, flesh color, and texture vary widely by cultivar, which is exactly why tasting your way through varieties is half the fun of growing your own.

Start Your Mango Grove Today

Every tree we sell is grafted, container-grown, and inspected before it leaves our Florida nursery. Browse the collection above by size and variety, or reach out — we're growers, not just sellers, and we're happy to help you match a tree to your yard, your climate, and your taste.

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